At the turn of the 18th century, Brazil experienced its first gold rush in the mountains of Minas Gerais. The gold rush created one of South America’s most prosperous and populated cities in colonial times – Ouro Preto.

Founded in 1698, Ouro Preto is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Today Visitors climb the original cobblestone streets, tour gold-brushed churches, and enjoy the many shops and restaurants that now occupy the old colonial buildings.

If you are already visiting Belo Horizonte in Minas Gerais or Rio de Janeiro in Brazil, Ouro Preto is an easy add-on destination! Below I detail our weekend adventure to Ouro Preto after a few days in Belo Horizonte.

Fittingly once referred to as Vila Rica, or Rich Village, Ouro Preto’s history is so old and complex that a blog post snippet could never do it justice.

The state of Minas Gerais and its original capital city played an indisputable role in Brazil’s early history. The region provided much of the initial wealth for the Portuguese crown during the 18th and 19th centuries. This was in large part due to mineral-rich cities like Ouro Preto.

During the 18th century, 1,200 tonnes of gold was mined in Brazil. Most of it was sent back to Portugal or smuggled illegally out of Minas Gerais. Some gold remained in Ouro Preto and was used to decorate the interior of churches. Nearly half a ton of gold and silver is found inside the Basílica Nossa Senhora do Pilar alone.

People from all over the world traveled to Ouro Preto in search of their fortune. Some of these travelers included Brazil’s leading thinkers and revolutionaries, who were instrumental in the independence movements and uprisings against the Portuguese Crown. Others included artists, who proudly left their mark in over a dozen ornately decorated churches scattered throughout the town.

Want to learn more about the colonial history of Brazil and the importance of Ouro Preto and Minas Gerais? I recommend reading the following chapters in Brazil: A Biography by Heloisa Murgel Starling Lilia Moritz Schwarcz.

• Chapter 4: Gold!
• Chapter 5: Revolt, Conspiracy and Sedition in the Tropical Paradise

You can also learn more through Google’s Art & Culture visual tour of Ouro Preto.

Ouro Preto is located in the state of Minas Gerais. It was the capital city of the state from 1720 to 1897. The town is 2 hours by car southeast of Belo Horizonte, making Ouro Preto an easy day trip or weekend stay outside of the capital city.

The closest airports to Ouro Preto are in Belo Horizonte. You will then need to rent a car or take a bus to Ouro Preto.

For our trip, we chose to rent a car through Localiza, a reliable car rental agency in Brazil. While more expensive than two bus tickets, we rented a car to have more flexibility during our stay in Ouro Preto.

If you prefer to take a bus from Belo Horizonte, tickets can be purchased online or in-person from the bus company Passaro Verde. Buses depart Belo Horizonte daily from the main bus station, Terminal Rodoviário de Belo Horizonte.

The journey is approximately 2 hours and one-way ticket prices range from R$44-R$49. Passaro Verde buses drop off at the Ouro Preto Bus Station, conveniently located only half a mile from Praça Tiradentes.

The bus is a good option if you only plan to spend 1 or 2 days in Ouro Preto. Once in Ouro Preto, just about all the main sites are walkable. Plus driving through a town that wasn’t built with cars in mind can be a little stressful.

Before the pandemic, there was a popular scenic train route connecting Ouro Preto and Mariana. As of 2024, Vale, the Brazilian rail company that operated the tours, still hasn’t resumed the 1 hour train ride. In place of the train, you can hire a taxi or take the Transcotta Bus for R$6.

Check the Vale site to see if the train has resumed before your visit.

Anywhere from 1 to 3 days will suffice depending on how much you want to see and do in the area. Anything more than 3 days and you might go stir crazy, unless you’re studying Brazilian Baroque architecture.

We spent 2 full days and 2 nights in Ouro Preto, which was plenty of time for us to thoroughly explore the historic town center, stroll the neighboring town of Mariana, and hike Pico do Itacolomi in the Parque Estadual do Itacolomi.

1. Visit the historic churches of Igreja São Francisco de Assisi, Igreja Nossa Senhora do Carmo, and Basílica Nossa Senhora do Pilar while you wander the winding cobblestone streets.

2. Enjoy a cup of coffee coado at Rena Cafeteria and indulge in the decadent mineira cuisine at Bené da Flauta Restaurante e Café.

3. Spend a quick morning or afternoon in Mariana, Ouro Preto’s neighboring colonial town.

4. Check out the Museu da Inconfidência to learn more about the uprising against the Portuguese crown that took place in Ouro Preto.

5. Browse the Feira de Artesanato de Ouro Preto (outdoor crafts market) or one of the many other artisan shops found in town.

6. After climbing the cobblestone streets all day, reward yourself with a craft beer at Bar da Cervejaria Ouropretana or a rooftop cocktail at Café das Flores.

7. Go for a hike in nearby parks like Parque Estadual do Itacolomi  for amazing views or Parque de las Andorinhas to see waterfalls.

We spent 2 nights at the Pousada Minas Gerais. We liked this Pousada for the following reasons:

• • Location: Pousada Minas Gerais is tucked away from the busyness of Ouro Preto but still only a 5-minute walk from the main sites (it is located downhill though from most attractions).
  • Room amenities: We had a large room and queen bed. The best part was the access to the shared terrace off the back of our room. We could see the top of Pico do Itacolomi from it.
  • Parking: Pousada Minas Gerais offers free and safe parking. Street parking is not easy in Ouro Preto so having parking included at our pousada was a must.
  • Price: At R$650 per night, Pousada Minas Gerais is in the middle tier for price in Ouro Preto.
  • Breakfast was included.

• Hotel Solar do Rosário – 5 star hotel, 2 night stay for 2 guests approximately R$1660
• Solar da Opera – 4 star hotel, 2 night stay for 2 guests approximately R$1200
• Hotel Pousada do Arcanjo – 4 star hotel, 2 night stay for 2 guests approximately R$1600
• Pousada Imperial Cidade – 2 night stay for 2 guests approximately R$1283
• Pousada Minas Ties – 3 star hotel, 2 night stay for 2 guests approximately R$982
• Pouso do Chico Rei – 2 night stay for 2 guests approximately R$711
• Varanda Hostel e Galeria de Arte – Hostel, 2 night stay for 2 guests approximately R$540
• É Hostel – Hostel, 2 night stay for 2 guests approximately R$292

• Café Rena: A cozy cafe serving an excellent c and has a nice souvenir shop selling regional coffee beans and grinds.
• Madá Café: A vibrant cafe west of the town center that serves specialty coffees and light-fare brunch items.
• Ópera Café: A charming coffee shop serving coffee from different regions of Minas Gerais along with breads and cakes baked in-house
• Café das Flores: Best rooftop terrace for drinks and apps in Ouro Preto
• Seu José: Good lunch option, centrally located, and has a lovely patio space
• O Passo Pizza Jazz: A lively restaurant with a wide-ranging food and cocktail menu
• Taberna Music Bar: Restaurant and bar with live music right off Praça Tiradentes
• Bar da Cervejaria Ouropretana: Craft beer brewed in Ouro Preto and cocktails, order the ginger IPA.
• Vila Boots Restaurante e Choperia: A large restaurant near Bar da Cervejaria Ouropretana with indoor and outdoor space. There is also a playground area for kids and free parking.
• Restaurante Contos de Réis: One of Ouro Preto’s most classic restaurants serving mineira dishes like Feijão Tropeiro.
• Bené da Flauta Restaurante e Café: A romantic restaurant with a great selection of hearty dishes and views of the neighboring church from upstairs, especially at night.

What to know before you visit

• • Bring sneakers or comfortable walking shoes. The town is very hilly and most of the streets are cobblestone.
  • Ouro Preto doesn’t have a big nightlife scene and things quiet down significantly at night.
  • Plan your visit on a weekday to avoid the weekend crowds.
  • Everywhere we went accepted either debt or credit cards but it’s always good to have some small bills available, especially for street parking.

Continue reading below to find out how we spent our weekend in Ouro Preto.

Following our breakfast at Cafe Nice in Belo Horizonte, we hit the road for Ouro Preto. The 2-hour drive between the two cities was easy and non-memorable. However, once we arrived in Ouro Preto, you saw an immediate shift from the new to old.

Driving through the historic town center of Ouro Preto is a little chaotic. The city was built following the natural curvatures of the landscape, not for vehicles. If you rent a cart, opt for a small hatchback so you can squeeze through the streets easily.

Following our hotel check-in at Pousada Minas Gerais, we set out on foot to wander the 300 year old streets.

We walked up approximately 1 hill until we decided we needed a coffee break. We popped inside the cozy Rena Cafeteria for a café coado or a cup of pour over coffee that is traditionally served using a cloth filter in Minas Gerais. Café Coado is often brewed right at your table, adding to the fun.

Rena Cafeteria has a cool shop in the front of the cafe that sells small-batch coffee beans grown in Minas Gerais, the materials and instruments needed to make your café coado at home, artisan chocolates, and more.

Realizing it had been a while since we ate breakfast, we walked around the corner of Rena Cafeteria to Café das Flores for lunch and some of the best views of Ouro Preto.

If you can, definitely try to get a seat on the rooftop terrace of this adorable cafe. The views are lovely along with the food and drink.

Mirante do Observatório: Pretty views of that are easy to get to compared to a few other viewpoints or mirantes.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora das Mercês e da Misericórdia: One of Ouro Preto’s famous churches, it is located next to the Mirante do Observatório.

Praça Tiradentes: The primary praça of Ouro Preto named for the man viewed as Brazil’s independence martyr, Tiradentes. He was killed and his head was put on display where a statue of him stands today.

Feira de Artesanato de Ouro Preto: a small outdoor market, many of the vendors are selling similar items. I honestly wasn’t that impressed and preferred the various storefronts to buy souvenirs.

Beware of the dressed up mimes and characters walking around this area, if you interact with their games or take a photo they will expect a payment in return.

Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Carmo: After touring the church, enjoy the views from the front lawn.

Craft beer at Bar da Cervejaria Ouropretana: As a reward for all the steps along the cobblestone streets (each step should count for double when going uphill on cobblestone in my opinion) we grabbed a table at Bar da Cervejaria Ouropretana and a flight of their best tasters. Ouropretana has a beer for everyone and if beer isn’t your thing, they also have a fun cocktail menu.

Dinner at Bené da Flauta Restaurante e Café: We capped off our first night in Ouro Preto with a cozy dinner at Bené da Flauta Restaurante e Café overlooking the famous Igreja São Francisco de Assisi.

We enjoyed the local bar snack favorite of torresmos or Brazil’s version of pork rinds – fried pork skin that is dried and salted. For dinner, it was all about the filé mignon and the folhada de frango or chicken wrapped in puff pastry.

They also serve a mineira or cuisine from Minas Gerais inspired menu at lunch.

Following breakfast at the pousada, we set out for Ouro Preto’s neighbor, Mariana. On our way to stopped at the Mirante do Morro São Sebastião. The drive up to the vista is very narrow and steep.

The quaint city of Mariana was the first city founded in Minas Gerais. It is located 30 minutes by car east of Ouro Preto. The town features similar architecture to Ouro Preto, including rows of low, white colonial buildings with colorful trim and baroque churches. If the tourist-filled streets of Ouro Preto are too much for you, Mariana is a nice, quiet escape.

The primary sightseeing areas are off the 2 main squares: Praça de Minas Gerais and Praça Gomes Freire. I found the latter as a nice space to read a book, enjoy a cup of coffee, draw, or people-watch.

Dia de Minas

The day we visited, unbeknownst to us, happened to be Dia de Minas or Minas Day. Every year on July 16th the state capital is symbolically transferred from Belo Horizonte to Mariana.

Typically the governor and state officials are present for the ceremony and festivities that take place outside in the main squares. It being our third month in Brazil, our Portuguese wasn’t great and we had no idea what we had stumbled into during our morning visit to Mariana.

Overall, besides the celebration taking place, the historic center of the town was pretty sleepy. I would only visit Mariana if you have the time already built into your trip. Removing time from Ouro Preto or even paying for a rental car to make the visit to Mariana isn’t worth it in my opinion.

On the way back to Ouro Preto we stopped at the Mirante da Lajes. This was one of my favorite views in Ouro Preto. It’s the classic postcard view.

After dropping the car off at the Pousada, we headed out to enjoy one more afternoon in Ouro Preto. Being a Saturday, the streets were filled with tourists and so were many restaurants. For lunch, we ate at O Passo Pizza Jazz. Originally we had planned to eat at Seu Jose, but the wait time was too long.

Continuing our stroll through Ouro Preto, we checked out more sights just west of the town center. The exterior architect of Igreja de Nossa Senhora do Rosário was one of my favorites.

We closed out our last evening in Ouro Preto with more good food, drinks, and live music on the patio of Vila Boots.

Part of the Espinhaço Mountains, Pico do Itacolomi soars 5,800 feet above Ouro Preto.

The rocky peak is striking and memorable. During colonial times, the first explorers and miners in the region referred to it as a lighthouse or Farol do Bandeirantes. The top of the peak can be seen from Ouro Preto, including our hotel room.

The peak is easily seen from Ouro Preto

Parque Estadual do Itacolomi

Parque Estadual do Itacolomi is open Tuesday to Sunday, 8am to 5pm. Upon entering the park, visitors must check in with the visitor center. The fee to hike Pico do Itacolomi is R$20 pp (May 2023).

In order to hike to the Pico do Itacolomi, you must check in with the visitor center prior to 11am.

The hike is approximately 7.5 miles out and back and takes an average of 4 hours to complete. The trail is considered medium to hard difficulty. We are avid hikers and found the trail to be medium difficulty. At the end, there are some steep climbs.

After checking in with the visitor center, the trailhead is another 3 miles ahead. The dirt road is accessible by car, bike, or foot. We saw a few people walking but most visitors drive the 3 miles to avoid adding unnecessary (and unexciting) miles to the hike.

There is a parking lot, another visitor center, bathrooms, and a small exhibit area near the trailhead.

After eating our way through Belo Horizonte and Ouro Preto, it felt good to get the heart rate going. The various landscape changes and views throughout the hike were fantastic.

Ouro Preto is the perfect day trip or weekend getaway if you are already spending time in the lovely city of Belo Horizonte.

If you have questions about visiting Ouro Preto feel free to leave them in the comment section below!

For more travel ideas, itineraries, and tips for Brazil, be sure to check out my other blog posts from Brazil.