If you can only visit one place in the Brazilian Amazon, make it Alter do Chão.

Once coined the “Caribbean of the Amazon” and voted the #1 beach in Brazil, Alter do Chão is the Amazon’s little slice of paradise.

Alter do Chão’s clear river waters, white sandy beaches, and tropical rainforests combine to create the perfect balance of relaxation and adventure during a visit to the Amazon.

Continue reading for the ultimate guide to visiting Alter do Chão in the Brazilian Amazon.

Alter do Chão

About Alter do Chão

Alter do Chão’s history has been molded by its Indigenous Borari roots and communities, the Portuguese colonizers and Jesuits’ missions, the short-lived rubber trade, and the growth of its tourism industry in the last 30 years.

Today 7,000 people live in the small town of Alter do Chão. Tourists from all over the world are drawn to Alter do Chão to bathe in the blue waters of the Tapajós River and bask on the white sandy beaches.

In September one of Brazil’s oldest festivals, Sairé, draws 100,000 visitors to the region. This festival honors the village’s past influences of religion and Amazonian folklore.

Why is the Tapajós River Blue? 

The Tapajós River is different from the Amazon and Negro Rivers in that it is “clear water.” The river carries little sediment or dissolved matter and thus retains its clear, blue coloring.

Views of the Tapajós River

Where is Alter do Chão

Alter do Chão is in the northern Brazilian state of Pará. It is 23 miles (37 km) from the city of Santarém and where the Amazon River and Tapajós River meet.

How to Travel to Alter do Chão

There are two ways to get to Alter do Chão. Both require travel through Santarém – either the airport or the port.

I don’t recommend spending time in Santarém over Alter do Chão but IF for travel reasons you need to spend a night there, the Hotel Palace Santarém is a dependable hotel.

While you are in Santarém, the boardwalk is worth a stroll as is dinner and craft beer at Casarão BrewPub.

Travel to Alter do Chão by Airplane

The Santarém International Airport is an easy 35-minute drive on a paved road from Alter do Chão. It is the only airport that services the town.

Belém, Manaus, and Brasília are the primary airports that fly directly to Santarém within Brazil.

Travel to Alter do Chão by Ferry

A more adventurous method of travel to Santarém is by Amazon River Ferry from either Manuas or Belém.

The ferries arrive multiple times a week at the Santarém Port. Taxis are always waiting to shuttle ferrygoers from the port to Alter do Chão or their destination in Santarém.

I detail everything travelers need to know about taking the Amazon River Ferry between Manaus and Santarém in my article – How to Travel from Manaus to Santarém: 31 hours on an Amazon River Ferry.

Ferries in the Manaus Port

When to Visit Alter do Chão

Choosing the time of year to visit Alter do Chão is very important.

Here the temperature changes very little between winter and summer. The biggest weather change is the amount of rainfall that determines the river and lake levels.

Seasons in the Brazilian Amazon

The Amazon region of Brazil experiences seasons differently than the rest of the country.

In Brazil, the seasons are reversed from the northern hemisphere. Summer is from January to March, Fall from April to June, Winter from July to September, and Spring from October to December.

In cities like Manaus, Alter do Chão, and Belém, the Amazon’s summer is from June to November.

This time of year receives the least rain and the famous river beaches will be the widest starting around August.

The Amazon’s winter is from December to May.

Beginning in December the rains start again. Eventually, Ilha do Amor (Love Island) and many of the river beaches will be completely erased come February.

During these months, the most popular activity in Alter do Chão is cruising the flooded forests in canoes.

Disappearing sandbars and beaches

How Many Days in Alter do Chão with Sample Itineraries

The number of days in Alter do Chão depends on how many boat tours you want to be able to do during your stay.

Almost all boat tours are full days. So plan on 1 tour per day.

I recommend at least 6 days since 2 of the 6 will most likely be partial travel days. This cuts your available tour and beach days down to just 4 days.

Alter do Chão Sample Itinerary

With 4 days, 3 nights:
Day 1 –  Arrive at Alter do Chão, see the sunset from Ilha do Amor
Day 2 – Boat tour to FLONA
Day 3 – Boat tour to the Jari Canal
Day 4 – Hike to Serra do Piroca, depart Alter do Chão

With 5 days, 4 nights:
Day 1 – Arrive at Alter do Chão, see the sunset from Ilha do Amor
Day 2 – A boat tour of the best beaches or Enchanted Forest
Day 3 – Boat tour to FLONA
Day 4 – Boat tour to the Jari Canal
Day 5 – Hike to Serra do Piroca, depart Alter do Chão

With 6 days, 5 nights:
Day 1 – Arrive at Alter do Chão, see the sunset from Ilha do Amor
Day 2 – A boat tour of the best beaches or Enchanted Forest
Day 3  – Boat tour to FLONA
Day 4 –  Boat tour to the Jari Canal
Day 5 – Spend the day at Ilha do Amor or Praia do Pindobal 
Day 6 – Hike to Serra do Piroca, depart Alter do Chão

For more information about the best tours and activities in Alter do Chão, read my article – 10 Amazing Things to Do in Alter do Chão, Brazil.

Alter do Chão’s urban area is small. Most hotels or pousadas are within walking town’s main square or praça.

Lodging options range from inexpensive, basic hotels to boutique, treehouse-style hotels. The latter is usually further from the town center.

In general, lodging here is affordable compared to the jungle lodges closer to Manaus.

My #1 hotel recommendation in Alter do Chão is Casa Saimiri.

Casa Saimiri is the most inviting, comfortable, and loveliest pousada in Alter do Chão. After 31 hours on the Amazon River Ferry, the rooms and beds at Casa Samiri felt like heaven.

The complimentary breakfast is delicious and plentiful with made-to-order eggs, fresh bread, homemade yogurt, fruit, and granola. Order the chef’s special – eggs over-easy with queijo coalho and oregano. So yummy.

Wonderful hotels within walking distance of the plaza and pier:

Recanto Alter do Chão
Pousada Alterosa
Pousada Boutique Vila de Alter
Quintal da Cuiarana

Hotels that are more nature-forward:

Vila AMZ
Casa da Árvore
Vila Flor Bed & Breakfast
Bangalôs da Selva at Casa do Saulo (outside of Alter do Chão)
Villa Arumā Pousada

Very inexpensive hotels in Alter do Chão:

Pousada Coração Verde
Pousada Villa Alter
Pousada Tupaiú
Pousada Tauari

The Top 10 Things to Do in Alter do Chão

1. Hike in the Tapajós National Forest (FLONA): A visit to the Tapajós National Forest is a must for visitors wanting to immerse themselves in the Amazon rainforest, learn about its different plants and species, meet members of local Indigenous communities, and swim in the mesmerizing waters of an igarapé.

2. Boat tour of the best river beaches around Alter do Chão: The Tapajós River is as blue and inviting as the ocean.  The Tapajós River is very calm and clear in the shallow areas. Tours are usually organized around visiting beaches north of Alter do Chão, beaches near FLONA, and beaches on the Arapiuns River.

3. Hike to Serra da Piraoca for Panoramic Views of Alter do Chão: Alter do Chão’s geography is super unique. From the top of the Serra da Piroca, hikers get a bird’s eye view of Alter do Chão, Lago Verde, the Tapajós River, and Ponta do Cururú. 

4. Spend the day at Alter do Chão Postcard – Ilha do Amor: Ilha do Amor or Love Island is the most popular attraction in Alter do Chão. In 2009 The Guardian named this beach the best in Brazil, despite not even being on the coast.

5. See the Weekly Carimbó show “Quinta do Mestre”: Every Thursday evening, at the Centro de Referência do Carimbó, visitors can experience the state of Pará’s unique dance and music – Carimbó. The free, outdoor performance is lively and energetic

6. Visit the Canal do Jari: The Canal do Jari or Jari Canal is a river channel that connects the Tapajós River to the Amazon River. Since 2014, Jari Canal resident, Dulce Oliveira has been cultivating a water lily garden. At the garden, visitors sample a variety of snacks she produces using water lilies.

Another stop near the Canal do Jari is Sloth Trail or Trilha das Preguiças.  Here it is possible to see dozens of Guianan squirrel monkeys, sloths, and Amazonic birds.

7. Take a Boat to see the “Meetings of the Waters”: One of the Amazon region’s phenomena is the “Meeting of the Waters.” This phenomenon occurs when the Amazon River meets and tries to mix with the Tapajós River near Santarém.

8. Enchanted Forest Tour: If you visit Alter do Chão during the rainy season when the river levels erase the beaches, the best tours are through the flooded forests.

9. Amire the Sunset at Ponta Cururu: Watching the sunset at Ponta Cururu is a magical experience in Alter do Chão. During the dry season (June to November), a sand bar forms near the Praia do Jacaré. Most boar tours finish the day at Ponta Cururu.

10. Dive into the Local Cuisine:  Alter do Chão’s cuisine is sometimes referred to as “Tapajônica” – a fusion of Amazonic and Paraense (from the state of Pará) that relies on methods, ingredients, and traditions derived from the Tapajós River region.

For more information about the top things to do in Alter do Chão, see my article – 10 Amazing Things to do in Alter do Chão

How to Schedule Tours in Alter do Chão

Boat tours can be arranged in advance or on the morning of the tour.

I always recommend arranging tours in advance to avoid any day-of issues and reduce stress during travel.

Reserve in-advance

If you want to book your Alter do Chão boat tours in advance I recommend using Serenature. Reservations can be made through WhatsApp. We had a fantastic experience with Serenature exploring the Tapajós River in Alter do Chão.

Another well-regarded local company is Selvagem Tours.

Both companies offer the most popular day tours in Alter do Chão.

Book day-of

If you want to wait to book your tours until you arrive in Alter do Chão, I recommend working with the local association of river boats – Associação de Turismo Fluvial de Alter do Chão (ATUFA) – who are always present on the boardwalk of Alter do Chão.

What to expect on the tours

Almost all boat tours function like this – 9 am departure time, various tour stops, stops at nearby beaches, lunch (not included with price), and a stop for the sunset before returning to Alter do Chão around 6 or 7 pm.

Tour sizes vary. Two of our boat tours had around 8 to 10 people while our tour to FLONA only had one other couple. Private tours can also be arranged.

Always double-check with your tour guide, but usually, the boats include a cooler with ice, water, and fresh fruit for clients.

Where to Eat in Alter do Chão

Alter do Chão’s cuisine is sometimes referred to as “Tapajônica” – a fusion of Amazonic and Paraense (from the state of Pará) that relies on methods, ingredients, and traditions derived from the Tapajós River region.

A few must-try flavors while in this region of Brazil:

• Jambu (a leafy plant)
• Cupuaçu (fruit)
• Banana da Terra
• Tucupi (manioc sauce)
• Castanha do Pará (Brazil nut)
• Tapioca
• Taperebá (fruit)
• Graviola (fruit)
• Caju (fruit)
• Bacuri (fruit)
• Cumaru (tonka bean nut similar to vanilla)

What is Jambu?

Jambu is a staple in Paraense cuisine. It is a Brazilian herb that when indigested produces a brief mouth-numbing sensation.

Jambu has been important to the Indigenous communities of the Amazon for hundreds of years. Its numbing qualities made it useful in treating ailments such as toothaches.

Today though, Jambu has become much more trendy and is found in many restaurants and bars throughout Northern Brazil.

Two of Jambu’s most popular uses in gastronomy are in the traditional broth-based dish called Tacacá and in Brazil’s famous cocktail – the Cairpirinha.

Casa do Saulo is the best restaurant to enjoy Tapajônica cuisine in Alter do Chão.

Casa do Saulo’s chef, Saulo Jennings, opened the restaurant to bring guests closer to the Amazon’s flavors, spices, and colors. His restaurant has an amazing location overlooking the Tapajós River and serves the most delicious food you’ll find in the Amazon.

At Casa do Saulo I recommend the Tucunaré (Peacock Bass) or Tambaqui fish, Caboco breaded shrimp, pastels (a pastel is like an empanada) local Marajó cheese, braised duck with Tucupi and Jambu, and to drink, a Cupuaçu Moscow mule.

Casa do Saulo is often included as a lunch stop on boat tours since it is outside of Alter do Chão’s town area. If you don’t visit by boat, the restaurant is a 35-minute drive from Alter do Chão’s main square.

In Alter do Chão, I recommend Ty Comedoria e Bar for excellent Tapajônica cuisine.

More restaurants to try in Alter do Chão:
Restaurante Altoque Amazônico
Arco-íris Restaurante
Cantinho do Caranguejo
Égua do Sabor (kiosk in the plaza)
Dulce’s Bar Alter (on Ilha do Amor)
Cris Doces Cafeteria Gourmet

If seafood isn’t your thing or you need a break from all the fresh fish, restaurants like Prime Ribs, XBom O Hambúrguer, or Siriá Bistro (vegetarian) are good options.

A fun way to try some of the exotic fruits and nuts is through ice cream. Alter do Chao has several ice cream kiosks and shops in town. I recommend Boto Gelato, Sorvete Alter, and Alter nas Nuvens.

Where to shop for Souvenirs in Alter do Chão

Alter do Chão offers a wide variety of authentic souvenirs from the Amazon.

• Lalah Amazônia – jewelry and art made by local Indigenous communities
• Casa Flow – Eclectic clothing and accessories from all around Brazil
• Araribá Cultura Indígena – Authentic and handcrafted items including artwork, furniture, jewelry, dining ware, and house decor all crafted by local artists and craftsmen from Indigenous communities
• Ekilibre Amazônia – Organic and sustainable hygiene and cosmetic products made with ingredients from the Amazon.
• Loja Tapajônica – jewelry and art made by local Indigenous communities
• Cuiarana – Unique clothing, jewelry, and accessories made locally and by women

Transportation in Alter do Chão

Visitors to Alter do Chão do not need a car. Every activity or tour revolves around the river and beaches, which are accessed almost exclusively by boat from the piers in Alter do Chão.

Within Alter do Chão, most pousadas are a quick walk to restaurants, shops, and nightlife.

For travel to and from Santarém, a taxi is the easiest option. Your hotel can easily call one for you.

The only exception to needing a car is if you stay well outside of Alter do Chão and plan to drive to and from town for tours.

What to read before visiting Alter do Chão

I highly encourage visitors to the Brazilian Amazon to check out one of the following books before their trip. This list of suggested Books for Travel to the Amazon has something for everyone.

Only have time for one book? My favorite is The Unconquered by Scott Wallace,  followed by River of Doubt by Candice Millard.

Where to go from Alter do Chão

If you can only visit one area of the Brazilian Amazon, my recommendation is Alter do Chão. However, if you have more time, there are so many amazing locations in this area of Brazil.

Fordlândia

If you are a history buff, adding a visit to Fordlândia while in Alter do Chão is a must. Fordlândia was a town on the Tapajós River built by Henry Ford in 1928. The town was constructed for the sole purpose of latex extraction from Brazil’s rubber tree.

However, less than 10 years later, Fordlândia was abandoned by Ford after Brazil’s rubber boom abruptly ended. Today, Fordlândia draws tourists curious about the town’s past.

Want to visit Fordlândia? Selvagem Tours offers a unique 5-day excursion down the Tapajós River including a stop at Fordlândia.

For a quick synopsis about Fordlândia, The Guardian featured it in its Lost Cities series.

Manaus

The most important city in the region, Manaus is typically the gateway into Amazon tourism.

I don’t recommend spending too much time in Manuas beyond visiting the city’s best tourist spots like hiking to Presidente Figueiredo’s waterfalls, touring the Teatro Amazonas, and visiting the Museum of the Amazon.

Otherwise, I recommend leaving Manaus for an Amazon River Lodge.

Check out my article featuring a stay at the Dolphin Lodge in the Amazon.

Belém

This is the capital city of the state of Para. Belém is famous for its traditional meal of unsweetened Acai and fried fish served daily at its markets.

There are also several islands near Belém to visit such as Mosqueiro Island, Combú Island, and Marajó Island.